Pitch Seven
The Crux
It was now about 11:30. Being on a large, sunny ledge with steep rock looming above, we decided to pause for a quick lunch. Not too sure where we were in the larger scheme of things, we thought we might be nearing the top. The next pitch looked like it might be the crux, and I thought I remembered the crux being pretty high on the route. We were hoping to be back to camp in time to catch the 4:30 bus out of Lake O'Hara. We didn't have reservations to camp anywhere that night; we were planning on finding an open campsite along the Icefields Parkway. Hopefully they wouldn't all be full!
I
remembered distinctly from the guidebook that the crux could be passed on the
right via broken rock at one grade easier (5.6). At this point I had had
my fill of broken rock and was really digging the climbing directly on the
ridge, so that is how I tackled the crux--head on! I must say, I was quite
pleased with my decision. The climbing on this pitch was awesome! It
totally made up for all the crappy, loose stuff we had climbed through to get to
this point. The crux involves a series of small overhangs--and how often
do you get to climb overhanging rock that goes at only 5.7? Just before
committing to the crux moves I found a couple solid fixed pins. "Sweet!
I'm still on route!" I thought as I clipped runners to them and climbed up
through the crux without hesitation.
